Summer fun

After spending a couple of weeks in Syria at the start of the month, it was great to get back home and have the opportunity to drive to work everyday in the Ghibli. Without fail, I step out of the car with a big grin on my face and I'm simply loving driving it!

Following on from the discoveries in my last post, I've trimmed back the sensitivity setting on the E-Boost controller and voila... the stuttering during hard acceleration has stopped! I've now increased the gain setting slightly to compensate and to set the boost pressure right at the end of the amber section on the dash boost gauge (I need to check but this should be just over 1.20 bar).

I'm also now slowly increasing the gate pressure setting, which is the pressure at which the controller starts to open the wastegates. It's currently set at 1.05 bar, but in third gear at least there's scope to increase this. Since my 3200 GT turbos don't spool up very quickly, there's less risk of over boost so the gate pressure can be set reasonably close to the desired boost pressure.

I'm really happy with the way that the car is performing now. Acceleration is nice and steady, with a kick in the arse coming around 4000 rpm. Keep the revs below this and the car is very civilised, above this and its nice and aggressive with a quick throttle response.

The warm weather is testing the new oil cooler. Now that I'm driving it more I'm noticing how it performs. It's obvious that when being driven with decent speed, the oil temp is being kept pretty low as the water temp is maintained below 80 deg C and the oil pressure stays just below 5 bar.

Slowing down or stopping when driving through town, the water temp is elevated and stays between 80-90 deg C with the fan coming on alot. Also, the oil pressure drops to 2.5 bar. But as soon as you get some speed up and get air flowing across the radiator, the temp is straight back below 80 deg C and the oil pressure to just below 5 bar.

So my conclusion is that the oil cooler is working well. It has no problem keeping the oil temp low when driving at speed (with good flow across the radiator) and it manages to take the edge off the heat when the car is stationary, which is where the problems occurred on the track.

There's some noticeable additional load on the engine at idle though, particularly when the engine is cold. It's only small, but the engine is more prone to stalling now and a dab of revs is required to prevent stall when reversing with full steering lock. I will get this sorted though when the car is dropped off at the garge next week end... the idle needs setting a fraction higher I think.

The car is going for the annual APK (road test) next weekend and also to have a few things done:

1. Re-fit the original distributor; it was replaced with a new one to check whether this was the cause of the stuttering, but since it isn't then the original can be refitted.
2. The volt meter has stopped working completely, so the wiring needs to be checked.
3. The idle needs resetting.
4. Maybe fit the new springs. I'm in two minds about this though as the ground clearance around town is good at the moment.
5. See if it's possible to modify the left wheel arch to increase the clearance a little and prevent the tire from rubbing on fast or tight right hand corners.
6. Perform small service (oil change).

I'll try and capture some log data to show the changes in the boost pressure... I expect that the boost curve will be much flatter now at the top end instead of oscillating up and down. I think the top end is now performing much better as a result. Feels like the car is back at 330 hp, but I'd need to take it back onto the dyno to check this...

It's official... the Ghibli is a classic

It feels like I've been neglecting the Ghibli of late, since I've not spent much time or effort on it recently. So in an attempt to make amends, I've spent most of the weekend giving the car a good clean an a thorough polish and to prove it I took some pictures!

Jonny's Polished Maserati Ghibli

While in the process, I had several neighbours and passers by comment on the car and pass on positive comments regarding the car and the condition, which is always nice to hear and a real charm of owning the car. Two of the passers by commented that the car is a collectors item and a rare classic... so there you have it! It's official... you can't argue with the word on the street!

Anyway, apologies for being so quiet... despite there having been plenty of stuff going on in my life recently, non of it has really revolved around the car, other than the Spax lowering springs that I ordered from the UK have arrived, which I'll get Jorrit to fit next time I take the car to Nordwijkerhout (probably in a month or so).

Rubber Update

Following on from my last post, I've explored a few options and spoke with Jorrit at Auto Forza who's been aware of this issue for a while and has been on the look out for a solution.

It seems that Maserati made an adapter kit for the non-ABS Ghibli in order to fit the later designed package from the GT variant. I also discovered that the design of the ABS and the subsequent GT cars are both different, which surprised me.

Fortuitously, Jorrit came across a Ghibli non-ABS subframe fitted with the adapter rings to fit the new parts from a GT car. Since he suspects that the second hand subframe is not completely straight, he's going to remove the adapters from this and fit them onto my good subframe and then order parts 1 to 7 in the drawing below. Since the rubbers from this GT group are cheap, I'll order a spare couple and take some measurements from these and try and get an equivalent poly part sourced.


This set up should make the front of my car feel stiffer and should help prevent rubbing my tires against the wheel arch when I corner hard. Talking of which, I checked my front tire size to jog my memory and indeed I fitted a pair of 225x40 tires on the front. Next time I'll fit some 225x35 which should prevent future rubbing... I went with the larger wall height to try and raise the front of the car a bit, but I think 40 was a little excessive in hindsight.

So, I'll be booking my car in with Jorrit shortly to do the following:

1. Upgrade the front bushings to GT spec.
2. Fit the Mocal oil/water heat exchanger.
3. Replace the pin in the driver's side door hinge.
4. Measure up the exhaust so that I can order some catalysts.

Hopefully I can get this sorted next week and ready for a drive to Mosel in Germany at the end of the month!

Garage appointment booked

Not much to report other than the new exhaust should be delivered by the end of this week (Larini seems to be a bit stretched at the moment, since they told me two to three weeks delivery but are taking more like four to five).

All the parts for changing out the bumpers have arrived at the garage except for some of the the adapter fittings (since the new bumpers are designed to fit on an ABS Ghibli, which has a slightly different fitting to the non-ABS cars), but hopefully these will arrive before the end of the week. I also noticed that the rubber elbow pipe leading to my driver's side intercooler was looking a bit cracked and have therefore ordered a new one... which is still yet to arrive, but Jorrit has a decent second hand one in his store which he'll fit if the new part hasn't arrived in time.

Here's a summary of the work that's hopefully getting done:

1. Replace bumpers front and back (including re-spray).
2. Roll out dent on front left wing.
3. Roll out dent in floor in driver’s side foot well.
4. Change out cracked rubber elbow into left intercooler.
5. Fasten boost solenoid valve (the original screw has fallen out).
6. Fabricate and fit new fixing brackets for air boxes.
7. Get the car APK tested (road worthiness test).
8. Fit new exhaust.
9. Fit wide-band lambda probe (including resistor) and wire in data-logger to ECU wiring harness (just the power and lambda probe for now). I need the pin diagram for non-ABS Ghibli (think it's the same as for a 224?). Once I have the pin diagram then I can wire in the other signals. Install the exhaust gas temperature probe on the exhaust and run the cables into the cockpit along with the lambda probe cables. I think there’s a spare port on the exhaust, otherwise will have to drill a hole and weld one on? It’s a 1/8” NPT fitting.
10. The voltmeter still stops working so will see if it can be fixed? Maybe a faulty earth connection?
11. Check engine timing; the car is loosing power above 4000 rpm, which may be an indication of problems with the distributor or valve timing. I’m convinced the car is loosing 10-20% power above 4000 rpm and since the fuelling looks fine from the last dyno (although the wideband lambda will be able to confirm this) the likely culprit is either air flow/temperature (changing the exhaust will help determine this) or timing (I’ve no reason to suspect that the ECU timing is incorrect since it’s not been re-programmed since the car was running well and producing 330 hp). So I think it’s a mechanical problem (unless one of the sensors to the ECU is malfunctioning, but if I get the data logger setup then I should be able to check this).
12. Determine amount of offset required to prevent front wheels from fouling suspension bars on full steering lock; I’ll have some wheel spacers made front and back (additional 10 mm would probably solve the problem?) once I know the required offset.
13. Fit new pin in passenger’s side door hinge. The old one has fallen out and now the door makes a loud cracking noise when opened due to the spring force in the hinge.
14. Check the clutch… the position that the clutch is engaging feels a bit high on the clutch pedal travel (i.e. the clutch pedal is almost fully out before the clutch feels to fully engage). This may be caused by the steep ramp I have to drive up in order to get the park out of the garage where I have the car parked?

If all this is sorted then the car should be running great, plus I can start getting some engine data to play with and use to focus my future upgrading efforts. Plus, once I install the accelerometers then I can get some road dyno results instead of having to go to the dyno all the time.